martes, 20 de mayo de 2014

The World's Best Places for Rock Climbing



From near-vertical granite walls and icy ascents, to contorted sandstone spires, bolted volcanic domes and hanging limestone crags, every climber will have a personal preference of what represents the world's 'best' rock climbing.

Plucking out some of the best-known and most revered routes from around the globe, our 'top ten' embraces this diverse discipline, and gives an insight into some of the most challenging routes in the sport:

  1. El Capitan, Yosemite National Park, USA
  2. Cerro Torre, Patagonia, Argentina
  3. Dead Horse Point, USA
  4. Kalymnos Island, Greece
  5. Matterhorn, Zermatt, Switzerland
  6. Mount Roraima, Brasil
  7. Nameless Tower/ Trango Towers, Baltistan, Northern Pakistan
  8. Paarl Rock, South Africa
  9. Spider Rock, USA
  10. Mallorca, Spain

Argentina
Piedra Parada, Chubut Region, Argentina
This region in the Andes is an ideal honeymoon destination for rock climbers. Featuring the Piedra Parada rock area, stretching up to 260m high, this region holds mostly sport climbing on volcanic rock. The Chubut River runs nearby, in the middle of this huge plateau. There are many skill levels available, making it accessible to all. Due to the weather, the most ideal time to climb would be from October to December.

Cerro Torre, Patagonia, Argentina
Rising 3,128 metres above a glacier, this sheer, snow-clad wall is the tallest in a chain of four granite peaks. Brutally steep and exposed to Patagonia's unforgiving elements, Celle Torre presents a formidable challenge to even the most accomplished climbers. First summited in 1959 by Cesare Maestri (Italy) and Toni Egger (Austria), in just four days, many climbers still consider this to be one of history's greatest ascents.



Australia
The Bard, Mt Arapiles, Natimuk (VIC), Australia
Rising from the wheat fields of western Victoria like an ancient, crumbling fortress is Mt Arapiles, the best beginner’s crag in the universe. And for any beginner there’s one rite of passage that cannot be missed: the 120m (394ft) Bard. Winding its way up the proudest part of Arapiles, the second pitch is the one everyone fears – a short, awkward traverse below a roof, the world dropping away beneath – but once overcome, three more brilliant pitches are followed by an adventurous descent through a cave and a long abseil. Does it get any better?

The best time to climb at Arapiles is March to November; summer (December to April) is very hot.


The Grampians, Statwell (VIC), Australia
Is a vast, mountainous and forested park, which is stunningly beautiful.  The Grampian is the largest rock climbing area in Australia though it is spread out over a large area with some of the crags in remote locations.  Here there are many multi-pitch routes providing some great adventure climbing. 

The majority of the routes are trad though there is the occasional bolt/peg where no other protection is possible. There are some sport routes though these tend to be in the higher grades.

The rock varies from grey sandstone to gorgeous orange and red quartzite, with the best time to climb during the months of Spring and Autumn.


Mount Buffalo, Porepunka (VIC), Australia
Is a granite plateau in northwest Victoria that is 1,500m above sea level and provides alpine style climbing. The climbing here is split into two very distinct styles; a 300m deep gorge and slabs on top of the plateau.  The gorge gives long, steep, crack trad climbing, whilst the slabs provide delicate bolt protected sport routes.

Offering two main climbing areas, the terrain here is extremely steep and is not recommended if your forte is sport climbing.

Snow falls in the winter so be sure to make the trek in the warmer months.


The Blue Mountains (NSW), Australia
Are the best place to go rock climbing near Sydney, which are located just to the west of the city.

Here there is a combination of both sport climbing and trad rock climbing on sandstone rock.  The climbing area is large and provides everything from single pitch routes to long multi-pitch routes across all grades. Climbing is best in Autumn and Spring, however seasoned climbers could tackle it all year round.


Point Perpendicular (NSW) , Australia
The climbs at Point Perpendicular are extremely varied in style, rock quality, position and protection.
This destination is all about adventure, and the Lighthouse area is always extremely popular.

High winds are a common occurrence so ensure you are well prepared for sudden gusts.


Kangaroo Point, Australia
This little-known climbing area, located in the heart of Brisbane, is right by the river. If you make it to the top of the 20 meter wall, this rock climbing trip will reward your hard work with a better view of both the city and the river than can be found anywhere else. Routes are available for every difficulty level from beginner to advanced.

Virtually every country, on every continent, offers the avid climber a multitude of rock climbing challenges combined with beautiful scenery. Book your rock climbing trip today!


Townsville/Magnetic Island (QLD), Australia
Surprisingly there is an incredible amount of climbing on Magnetic Island, making this a must while in the Townsville area. The climbing is on medium-large sized boulders and rock formations around the island's many bays. Ideal for beginners!


Freycinet Peninsula (TAS), Australia
Coles Bay is probably one of the best known climbing areas in Tasmania, mostly owing to its natural charm and relaxed atmosphere.

Visit from September to May and experience well protected climbs, all while enjoying the stunning natural peninsula.


Kalbarri (WA), Australia
New and sporty, Kalbarri is fast becoming a hot spot for younger climbers.

Located within the Kalbarri National Park, the sandstone cliffs here are ideal for climbing year round, with the summer months best avoided.


Umbrawarra (NT), Australia
Considered the best in the Northern Territory, Umbrawarra is located 240 kilometres south of Darwin on the Sturt Highway. The sandstone cliffs are perfect for climbing in the dry winter season, with around 30 routes on offer.


Booroomba (NSW/ACT), Australia
Located within the Namadgi National Park, Booroomba offers some lovely cheese-greater slabs with good exposure. Boasting a wide range of slabs, cracks and faces, climbing can be a little unpredictable at times so ensure you are alert at all times.

The best times to climb are during Spring, Autumn and the cooler months of Summer.

Another great destination for rock climbing enthusiasts is New Zealand, and campervan Queenstown provides the perfect holiday opportunity to do this.





Brazil
Agulha do Diablo (The Devil's Needle), Brazil
Agulha do Diablo is in Serra dos Órgãos National Park, Brazil.



Brasil, Venezuela and French Guyana
Mount Roraima, Brasil, Venezuela and French Guyana
Travel south of the continent to experience another one of the best places for rock climbing. Mount Roraima, It is situated in the Canaima National Park of Venezuela, which borders Venezuela, Brazil and Guyana, and stands 9,219 feet tall. This mountain is not only one of the best places to climb, but it's also one of the most ancient geological formations. There is only one way up this mountain and it's 90 degrees straight up. Sir. Everard F. im Thurn is considered the first person to climb this plateau in 1884 and it's said to have inspired the novel 'The Lost World' by Sir Arthur Conan Doyle.



Bulgary
The Malyovitsa
The Malyovitsa region is the cradle of Bulgarian rock climbing and mountaineering.


Lakatnik
Lakatnik is the oldest and second biggest climbing region in Bulgaria. Currently it has five crags and around 350 routes. The rock is solid good quality limestone. The routes are mainly steep or vertical but sometimes you can find overhangs and roofs. The best season for climbing in the region of Lakatnik is winter between the months of December and April.

Lakatnik is a village in the western part of Bulgaria. It is located around 60 km away from Sofia and very close to the town of Svoge (15 km), in the Iskar River Gorge, which divides the Balkan Mountain in the north-south direction. The area around Lakatnik is gorgeous. There are cliffs spread around the entire area.



Canada
Squamish, British Columbia, Canada
The large granite faces of Stawamus Chief, a large mountain in Squamish are what make it a popular rock climbing destination in Canada. The granite is very good quality and near the village, it is mainly slabs and chunks, while further North it is metamorphosed rock. With well over 1,500 climbing routes of multiple difficulty levels, this is a wonderful place to climb. Its beautiful location full of famous British Columbia sights certainly gives this place a breath of fresh air. Enjoy doing the things you love in this excellent location of Canada!


Skaha Climbing Bluffs, British Columbia, Canada
The Skaha Climbing Bluffs are located in British Columbia Canada. The scenery is full of green trees and waterfalls.


Bugaboo Spire, Columbia-Kootenay, Canada
This is one of the famous Alpine rock climbing spots of Canada. The word Bugaboo means ‘an object of obsessive, usually exaggerated fear or anxiety.


The Grand Sentinel, Alberta, Canada
The Grand Sentinel is a 100+ meter obelisk quartzite rock tower on the back side (north) of Pinnacle Mountain in Banff National Park, one of four connecting national parks making up the central Canadian Rockies. The Grand Sentinel features two classic and popular routes, the four pitch Alpine II, 5.9 trad route up the South Face and the four pitch 5.10d sport route up Grand Sentinel’s southeast arête (Cardiac Arête). The South Face offers a 5.9 variation finish versus the 5.8 original route. Loose rock is an issue on the Grand Sentinel as, despite being quartzite, it gives the appearance it could crumble if you leaned on it in the right spot. We encountered several large loose blocks ourselves on the South Face.

The South Face route (Selected Alpine Climbs in the Canadian Rockies) on the Grand Sentinel involves 4 pitches of trad climbing with solid stations and one piton under a large roof over the third pitch. There are two finishes after the third pitch, a 5.4 loose pitch that traverses out left (west) and a much more aesthetic 5.9 direct pitch straight to the summit which utilizes small gear in flakes. The third pitch, 5.8, is a fun challenge following a wide crack to a short but well-ventilated roof problem.

Cardiac Arête, 5.10d, (Sport Climbs in the Canadian Rockies) is a sustained 4 pitch sport route that runs right of the south face basically following the southeast corner of the Grand Sentinel which is the Mount Temple side. The climbing is sustained in the 5.9-5.10a range with 5.10d cruxes along the way. The route is not as loose as the south face, but rock fall is still an objectionable hazard en route. The lower part of Cardiac Arête gets late morning sun and the upper section early afternoon sun. This route is well protected at 8-12 bolts per pitch. Take plenty of draws and several long slings for a roof here and there.


Mount Temple, known as the Eiger of the Rockies, Alberta, Canada
Alberta has something for everyone…for the alpinists there are easier climbs such as Mount Athabasca, and for the rock-jocks there is the north face of Mount Temple, known as the Eiger of the Rockies. This takes you straight above the picturesque tourist town of Lake Louise and, as you ascend, you’ll watch the lights of the town become ever more distant.


Canmore, Alberta, Canada
In the Canadian province of Alberta and close to the city of Calgary, Canmore offers one of the best things climbing around this huge country.

Here you can also practiced ice climbing, one of the most coveted disciplines, even those who are learning.

These summits of limestone bases and offer few arrests. Canmore is the path to the summit sport Ha Ling, the longest in Canada, with 550 meters high, which allows spectacular views of Canmore and Grassi lakes.



Chile
Torres del Paine, Chile
Located roughly 160km south of Fitzroy, the Paine National Park is an incredibly beautiful place to visit and also boasts the ‘Towers of the Blue Sky’ which make up some of the wildest rock climbs in the world. The area is a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve and home to all sorts of wildlife as well as weather. The locals like to say all four seasons can be experienced in one day in Patagonia, joking “if you don’t like the weather just wait a minute”. Despite the unpredictable conditions, the area offers spectacular climbing of which the Towers are the most famous. The Central, North and South Towers are 8,071ft, 7,415ft, and 8,204ft respectively but don’t let the lack of elevation fool you; these are difficult climbs, especially if you get caught in one of the blizzards that can stay for up to a week.


Cochamo Valley, Chile
Cochamó Valley is one of the most beautiful and lesser known landscapes of the south. Among lush vegetation, mountainous include granite walls that are a real Mecca for climbers of Chile and the world.

The Cochamo Valley is home to thousand-metre walls and granite crags, with plenty of unclimbed lines still awaiting a first ascent. The 'Yosemite of South America', Chile's glaciated National Park is far less developed that its US cousin, and visitors can enjoy much greater freedom here, without the park restrictions - and amenities - of Yosemite. One of Cochamo's most famous climbs is known as 'E.Z. Does It' - a challenging crack and slab ascent of the valley's most prominent face, 'Trinidad'.



China
Beijing Miyun White River Valley (北京密云白河峡谷), China
Miyun White River Valley (Baihe Valley) is one of the top 2 nature rock climbing places in China, together with Yangshuo County in Guilin. It is a popular place to spend a weekend or a holiday loved by Beijing local people, white River in Beijing suburbs is considered as the birthplace of rock climbing in China. Most excellent climbing spots are located around Jiangjiafen Village (蒋家坟村).

The rock there has typical granitic properties: Clean with few loose rocks, and the friction is good for climbing. It has been developed by rock climbing fans for over eight years. There are nearly a hundred lines to choose from. They are mainly sport climbing lines (YDS 5.7–5.13, professional), traditional climbing lines, and multi-pitch lines.

The Old Rock Spot (老岩) is the most famous site near the village. Travelers can join a rock climbing or go fishing and hold a barbecue in the beautiful natural area. The climbing sites in the White River Valley are around 110 km from Beijing. This area has been developed for 8 years to offer some great climbing journeys loved by rock climbers.

White River's rock climbing area is about 110 km (65 miles) from Beijing. Rock climbing has developed well there, and there are more rock climbing fans at weekends.

Location: White River Valley, Around Jiangjiafeng Village, Shicheng District, Miyun County, Beijing.

Transportation: Travelers can take a Bus 980 (about 10 CNY) at the Dongzhimen Long Distance Bus Station to Miyun Gulou (密云鼓楼) and transfer a car to Jiangjiafen Village, you can do it renting vehicles there (100 yuan for a vehicle).


Beijing Shidu Crag (北京四渡岩), China
Situated in the Sidu Scenic Area, Beijing Sidu Crag has various routes. The spot is a popular climbing site suitable for climbing beginners. With grand and great rocks, it only comes to visitors' sights in recent years. A large number of amateur climbers head to Sidu Crag to enjoy a great rock climbing journey.

Sidu Crag has around 30 climbing routes with different styles and levels. Plenty of 5.10 lines are available for new rock climbers. At the same time, an 18-meter 5.12c climbing line can be a challenge for experienced climbers. Together with White River Valley, Sidu Crag is one of the most famous and popular rock climbing sites in Beijing. It is a great place to spend weekends.

Location: Sidu Scenic Area, Fanshan District, 70 km SE of Beijing.

Transportation: Take bus 917 and get off at Sidu.


Yangshuo County in Guilin (桂林市阳朔), China
Yangshuo County in Guilin is a rock climbing paradise for both professional and amateurish climbers. Due to its natural karst landscape advantage, Yangshuo offers some excellent climbing sites. The White Mountain(白山)Moon Hill (月亮山) and Wine Bottle (酒瓶山) are the most famous and popular climbing sites in Yangshuo areas. There are plenty of professional climbing lines and easy routes to meet climbing beginners' needs.

Yangshuo is the best for quantity, quality and difficulty in China.

As the most popular climbing destination in Yangshuo, Moon Hill is not only an excellent place to take part in rock climbing, but also a wonderful chance to have a bird view of beautiful landscapes in Yangshuo. Besides, Yangshuo holds annually Yangshuo Climbing Festival which attracts numerous professional rock climbers and climbing beginners from the whole country.

Location: Yangshuo County, 60 km south of Guilin, Guangxi.

Transportation:
·         There are nonstop coaches to Yangshuo every 15 minutes from 7am-7pm at Guilin Coach Station. The fare is 22 yuan for a single and it takes about 90 minutes. You must buy a ticket before you take a bus.
·         Guilin Railway Station also has buses to Yangshuo at 20 yuan, and it also takes 90  minutes, but you buy your ticket on the bus.


Fumin, Kunming (昆明富民), China
Fumin County in Kunming is one of large scale natural rock climbing sites. There are about 100 climbing routes from 5.8 to 5.13. The lines are so many that climbers can enjoy climbing for two months. It is a great place to take rock climbing for climbing beginners in Yunnan Province. And professional climbers can also enjoy a great fun at Fumin climbing site. 5 km away from Fumin County center, Tanglangchuan (螳螂川) Climbing Site has been developed for 7 years with great facilities.

Fumin's climbing is in a valley with 100 meter sides. The rocks along both banks soar to heaven, and the view is great.

No bars, no waiting lines, and no crowds, there is only rock climbing. With its beautiful natural scenery, clean and comfortable environment, warm and dry climate, simple folk customs, and low expenses, climbers can enjoy the pleasure of climbing.

Location: Fumin County, 30 km NW away from Kunming, Yunnan Province.

Transportation: There are buses to Fumin at Northwest Station from 7.10am-8.30pm every 10 minutes, 9 yuan per person.


Duodi Country, Lhasa (夺底乡), China
The natural rock climbing site is located in Duodi Rural District, just  north of Lhasa, about 5 kilometers away from Lhasa City. The climbing site was developed by coaches from Federation Francaise de la Montagne et L' Escalade (FFME) and students from Tibet Mountaineering School since 2000. Now there are more than 30 lines, and there are some climbing-themed clubs in Lhasa, providing the local guide and equipment renting service.

Lhasa, the capital of the Tibetan Autonomous Region, is 3,700m above sea level. When climbing up a mountain, the vast panorama of the city including the Potala Palace opens up to you, you are enjoying the same view of an eagle. What an amazing view!

You may have trouble to find a suitable winter rock climbing in China, but winter is the best time to climb in Duodi County. With comfortable climate and temperature in winter, Duodi County offers a great winter climbing journey. Winter is a tourism low season, so to take a climbing journey there is much cheaper than summer.

Location: Duodi District, Chengguan District, 5 km NE of Lhasa, Tibet.

Transportation: Take bus 302 or a taxi to Duodi District.


Guangzhou Baiyun Mountain (广州白云山), China
Located inside of 5A national scenic spot- Baiyun (White Cloud) Mountain Scenic Area, the climbing site offers a total of 18 climbing routes. The routes are more suitable for skilled climbers rather than climbing beginners. There are 3 different granite rock faces in the area. As the only climbing site in Guangzhou City, the Baiyun Mountain Climbing area-also known as Rubbish Granite Grag(垃圾花岗岩壁) by local people, has held abundant climbing activities.

The climbing site is popular a weekend destination, so it's wiser to visit Baiyun Mountain on weekdays. In the north of scenic area, it is widely loved by experienced rock climbers in Guangdong Province.

Location: Baiyun Mountain Scenic Area, Baiyun District, Guangzhou

Transportation: Take metro line 3 and get off at Baiyun Mountain stop. Or take Bus 24, 65, 175, 223, 240 and 540 to Yuntai Garden stop (Baiyun Cable stop).


Qingdao Laoshan Mountain (岛崂山), China
Occupying an area of more than 40 square kilometers, Laoshan Mountain climbing site has been popular among rock climbers in recent years. There are around 150 climbing routes to meet your climbing needs. The official (also the best) climbing time is from March to November every year. Travelers can experience the rock climbing and also enjoy natural beautiful scenery on the Laoshan Mountain.

If you visit Laoshan Mountain in winter, you can try an ice climbing instead of a rock climbing. It is really an interesting and unforgettable journey in the Laoshan Mountain Scenic Area in winter. And Monkey Crag is another popular rock climbing site in Laoshan area.

Location: Liuqinghe, Laoshan District, Qingdao, Shandong Province

Transportation: Take bus 104,113,304 and 802 to reach Liuqinghe(流清河) or Bus 110,112,311 and 365 from Beijiushui北九水to Wolong Village卧龙村-outside of Laoshan Mountain Scenic Spot.


Guiyang贵阳), China
Guizhou in the southwest of China has some great karst landscapes as Yangshuo in Guilin, so it offers some wonderful climbing sites for rock climbing lovers. Less travelled by visitors, Guizhou Province provides travelers with cheaper but excellent rock climbing sites. Rear Mountain cave (省政府后山四围洞岩壁), Four-sided River (四方河), Guiding Cliff (贵定岩壁), Great Arch of Getu He  are famous climbing sites in Guiyang with a total of 12 routes.

Getuhe or Gétù Hé (格凸河) Valley, 3 hours away from Anshun City which is famous for Huangguoshu Waterfall (黄果树瀑布) is the best place to take some climbing journeys in Guizhou Province; There are routes from 5.7 to 5.14 for climbing lovers and professional climbers. You must go too to Great Arch of Getu He.

Great Arch of Getu He is the place where Petlz filmed in 2011 his documentary. This is a large proportion of the rock in the southwest region of the Middle Kingdom is karst, and this area is just beginning to reveal its amazing climbing potential. The caves and arches of Getu He (Getu River) provide the kind of climbing that is similar to what can be found in Yangshuo – in the neighboring province of Guangxi – as well as in Thailand, Vietnam and, a bit further, Cuba's famous "Mogotes" in the valley of Vinales.

Le Grande Arche (Chuanshang Cave), Buddha Cave and Devil's Cave sectors. To date, the 250 pitches that have been opened at Getu include all facets, reliefs, styles and difficulties of sport climbing including:

  • Ten sustained, multi-pitch routes from 120 to 250 meters with ratings from 4+ to 8+.
  • More than 15 sport climbing sectors with everything from steep walls, slabs and caves featuring grades of 5a to 9a.

There is something for everyone, all within a maximum 40-minute walk from the village.

The fans of multi-pitch routes will feel particularly spoiled especially routes at the CMDI Wall with moderate like Blue Spirit (200m, 5c max, 5a mandatory) or Wood Cutter (200m, 6a+ max, 5C+ mandatory). And for those looking for something a bit more difficult there are masterpieces like Lost In Translation (150m, 8a max, by Stéphanie Bodet and Arnaud Petit), Corazon de Ensueno (200 m, 8b+ max by Dani Andrada), La Voie du Milieu (300 m, 8b+ max by Daniel Dulac), and Nihao Wokepa (150 m, 8a max by Toni Arbones and Marcos Costa).

Location: Guiyang City and Anshun City, Guizhou.

Transportation: Trains and buses are available to Guiyang and Anshun.


Hong Kong / Macau, China
Climb sea cliffs at Tung Lung Island or multi-pitch lines next to skyscrapers on Soho crag. Rock climbing among both natural and urban environments makes for an exciting combination with the excitement of Hong Kong and the casinos of Macau. More advanced climbers will have plenty of challenging routes available as well, along with the opportunity to gain new skills and reach the next level. All the sights and experiences of Hong Kong make a great contrast to the quiet nature of some of the islands’ unspoiled climbing walls.



Croatia
Dalmatia, Croatia
Visit the home of the largest marine limestone in Europe. Full of rich history, this destination has many sights to see along with many cliffs to climb. Climbing started in the 2oth century on the 300 meter cliffs and now has stretched all along the extensive range of Dalmatia. Enjoy this rock climber’s paradise and everything that goes along with it: sport climbing, bouldering, multipath climbing and deep sea soloing! There is never climbing season that last longer, for it lasts all year.





Egypt
Sinai Peninsula, Egypt
The main climbing area in Egypt is situated around St Catherine at Mount Sinai on the Sinai Peninsula, near Sharm el Sheikh.  This area is huge and has only recently started to be developed, and has excellent opportunities for developing many new routes.  The climbing is on red granite rock and the routes vary from single pitch to multi-pitch routes up to 700m long.  The style and ethics is purely traditional, requiring the placing of cams and nuts for protection, with many crack and slab climbs.  St Catherine is at an altitude of 1500m and therefore the temperature varies considerably during the day and night.  The best time to climb is from mid-March to the end of April, and from October to the end of November. The routes face all directions so it is always possible to climb in the shade – this is the desert after all. 

To the north of Sharm el Sheikh, and situated by the coast is Dahab and the Wadi Qu’nai valley.  Here there are a small number of sport routes, but the main interest is for bouldering on excellent granite rock.



France
Fontainebleau, France
More information in the article: Top 20 Bouldering Spots around the World.


Les Calanques, France
France has many great climbing locations including Chamonix and Fountainbleu, but Les Calanques stands out for us. Situated in the south of France on the Mediterranean coast, a range of limestone mountains span from Marseille to Cassis, 20km to the east. A wealth of varied climbing can be found here…steep overhangs in caves? Technical slabs? Multi-pitch routes in the mountains? Single-pitch routes on the sea’s edge? Take your pick. In total there are 8 main rock climbing areas, each with its own distinct feel. Both Marseille and Cassis are towns worth exploring too with their idyllic climates and cultural venues.


Alps, France
The French Alps combine the best of both worlds. There is short, safe sport climbing in the valleys around Chamonix but the skyline is dominated by the huge snowy peaks of the Mont Blanc Massif. You get the absolutely stunning views and the beginner-friendly, safe climbs too. And if you really enjoy your experiences on the valley crags, you can hire a guide who’ll take you up high and give you a taste of real Alpine rock and ice climbing.

Chamonix and the other Alpine resorts aren’t cheap, even in the summer off-season- it’s much too cold and icy for beginner climbers in winter- but they are very well set up for visitors. There may be more outdoor stores, hire shops, and climbing guides here than anywhere else in the world. Campsites, bunkhouses, hostels, bed and breakfasts, and hotels line the streets so you won’t have trouble finding somewhere to stay. Kids are welcome at most of the climbing schools and English-speaking childcare is easily available if the grown-ups want to try something a little tougher and closer to the summits.


Verdon Gorge, France
The 13-mile-long (21-kilometers) Verdon Gorge, carved by the rushing Verdon River, offers over 2,000 climbing routes that range from single-pitch sport routes to multi-day aid climbing adventures. Most of the climbing spreads along a nine-mile stretch of south-facing limestone cliffs below the 14-mile (26-kilometer) Route des Cretes, which forms an open loop driver from La Palud north of the gorge.

The Verdon Gorge or Les Gorges du Verdon in French is simply one of the world's great climbing areas. The Verdon, a place to rival Yosemite Valley, offers over 1,000 routes of all grades on the vertical gray and blue limestone walls that line the 13-mile-long canyon in southeastern France. Here are some of the finest free climbs in the world, routes that require impeccable face climbing technique on perfect pocketed limestone and a calm resolve and steely nerves to move upward above the exposed void.

The Verdon Gorge is also one of the places on the planet where sport climbing, the discipline of ascending gymnastic-style routes protected by bolts, evolved. Initially long routes like La Demande were established in a traditional climbing style from the ground-up and with only a few hand-drilled bolts.

But in the 1980s, the Verdon, along with neighboring areas like Buoux, became a laboratory for sport climbers who rappelled down the faces and placed bolts for protection before working extreme moves to get up extreme routes without falling. It was during the eighties too that many single-pitch routes were established along the canyon rim for both top-roping and leading.

It has spectacular walls up to 1,500 feet high, get some air under my soles, and relish the art of climbing movement on immaculate limestone. The camping at the nearby village of La Palud-sur-Verdon as well as the bakery and the restaurants and the fresh baguettes smothered with brie or Nutella add extra zing to your European climbing vacation.

LOCATION: Verdon Gorge is located in southeastern France. The Verdon Gorge is a two-hour drive from Marseille and Nice on the Mediterranean coast and three hours south of Grenoble. The closest airport is at Nice, about a two-hour drive away.

GETTING TO VERDON GORGE: The Verdon Gorge is difficult to reach except by car, making a visit problematic for the visiting budget climber. Renting a car wherever you fly into, usually Paris or Marseille, makes the best sense since you can travel to other crags, visit local historic sites and places on rest days, and, if the weather turns sour, head south to the coast for drier weather. You also need a car Make car reservations ahead of time because you will get better rates than if you just show up at the rental agency or book in France.

DRIVING DIRECTIONS TO VERDON
From Paris, follow the Autoroute du Soleil A6 south through Lyon to the Avignon Sud exit. Go east on the N100 highway through Apt to Manosque. Get on the D6 here and drive through Valensole to Riez. Continue east on the D952 to Moustiers and then up the final winding highway to La Palud-sur-Verdon.

From the south and Nice, follow the N86 highway to Castellen, then follow the N952 to La Palud.

VERDON CLIMBING SEASONS AND WEATHER: Climbing is possible year-round but it can be too hot in summer and too cold in winter. The gorge's 3,000-foot elevation give it an unpredictable mountain climate, especially since it lies between the cooler alpine region to the north and the drier Provencal climate to the south.

Summer is popular and it usually is not too hot. July and August are the hottest months so climb early and climb late. Reserve the middle of the day for a siesta. Also look for shady routes and avoid climbing in direct sun. The L'Escales cliffs face southeast, with sun from morning until mid-afternoon. Look for smaller shaded cliffs outside the main canyon on hot days. Keep an eye on the weather too since thunderstorms with lightning are common on summer afternoons. Get off the canyon rim to a lower spot to avoid lightning strikes.

Autumn is the best time to visit the Verdon Gorge, with high pressure keeping temperatures warm and pleasant. October, however, can often be rainy, although it is rare to have more than two days of rain. The rock dries quickly after rain so you never lose much climbing time. The spring months are unpredictable with unstable weather patterns. It can rain and even snow in March and April. May is one of the best months here though with generally warm dry days and occasional rain.

The orientation of the cliffs at Verdon Gorge usually protects climbers from the nagging mistral winds, which come out of the north and west here. Climbing on the main cliff is usually fine when the mistral blows, although doing belay duty on the rim can be a drag.

ACCOMMODATIONS AND CAMPING: No illegal or primitive camping is allowed in the Verdon Gorge area or in the park. Most climbers stay at the village of La Palud-sur-Verdon, which offers plenty of accommodations. Two campgrounds, at opposite ends of the village, are perfect. The municipal campground on the east has grassy sites, some shaded but most sunny. It's a good place to meet climbing partners.

Several gîtes or guesthouses are near La Palud. L'Etable is popular with both dorms and private rooms. Others are L'Arc-en-Ciel, Auberge de Jeunesses, and Auberge des Crêtes. Look on-line for others or to make reservations, especially in summer. There are also several hotels in the area, including Hotel La Provence, Hotel Le Panoramic, and Hotel des Gorges du Verdon.

For information on accommodations, contact the Office de Tourisme in La Palud or visit their website.

SERVICES, EQUIPMENT, AND GUIDES: La Palud offers all visitor services, including a bakery, restaurants, grocery store, and cash machine. Le Perroquet Vert, the local climbing shop on the main street, offers chalk, climbing gear, and guidebooks. It also has a restaurant and rooms to let. There are several climbing guides, including Englishman and long-time Verdon climber Alan Carne's guide service Alan du Verdon.


Greece
Kalymnos, Greece
It is said that Kalymnos has the highest concentration of sports routes anywhere in the world. Quite a bold statement but it is certainly true there is a colossal amount of rock to climb here. The current Kalymnos rock climbing guidebook describes 64 sports crags, mainly west and south facing, with nearly 1,700 routes ranging from F4a to F9a. The existing routes only cover a tiny portion of what is available to climb here. There are some quality crags still waiting for their first route - all they demand is a little longer walk-in.

The rock is top quality solid limestone, which is a little sharp in places. The style of the rock climbing has everything from stalactites and tufas on steep and overhanging wall to delicate slabs and pumpy walls with pockets and smaller tufa features. The majority of the routes are single pitch of around 20 to 30m. However there are a few longer routes reaching 3 to 5 pitches. The limestone at Kalymnos is as yet almost unpolished, and this will be slow to change given the particular rough surface of the rock.


Meteora, Greece
While a group of Orthodox monks has almost reached the sky with its temples, in Meteora, northern Greece, another group pursuit tops only with ropes and harnesses. The first are six monasteries atop mountains, shaped towers where climbing is prohibited, but the place offers elsewhere to practice. There are spectacular views of a mountain canyon, and athletes can access more than 170 peaks and 670 routes, which rear up to 280 m. We recommend visiting from April as the winter snow makes it almost impossible sports.

Literally translated, Meteora means ‘the ones that stand, hang alone in the air’ and this is an appropriate description of the sedimentary monoliths that make Thessalia, at the heart of Greece, home to some fantastic climbs. Here, shepherds had the first idea and carried their sheep up to the top to graze, ensuring their survival! Now, climbers visit to be among the statuesque and often bizarre rock formations. Routes vary from grade 5 to grade 7 so there is something for everyone, and if you want to venture further afield then Mouzaki, near Trikala, is not far and offers some excellent sport climbing from grade 4c to very hard.



India
Parvati Valley and Miyar Valley, Himachal Pradesh, India
In the beating heart of the Himalayas in Himachal Pradesh lies the valley of the Goddess, blessed with scraggly ridges and steep cliffs. Parvati Valley, located at the cusp of the meandering Parvati River and the Beas River, is a region lush with flowers and rocky outcrops, perfect to get a grip on as you shimmy up their surface. Surrounded by snow-capped mountains, the region has hot sulphur springs that a long and languorous trek through the valley can bring you to.

Miyar Valley, on the other hand, has verdant forests, snow-capped peaks, gushing rivers and picture-postcard hamlets. The valley shares its border with Zanskar in Ladakh. Breathtakingly beautiful, the conditions here are ideal for rock climbing. Climb on one of the countless mountains facing the glistening Miyar Glacier. The granite towers are perfect perches for veteran climbers, taking you atop the mighty Himalayas.


Hampi, Karnataka, India
The erstwhile capital of the mighty Vijaynagar Kingdom, Hampi is a fascinating outpost for rock climbers—a wonderful journey of discovery in its past. Its landscape is flecked with boulders and rocks, making Hampi ideal for bouldering—a version of rock climbing done without ropes, drawing on one’s strength and stamina, as seen in Mission Impossible 2 demonstrated by Tom Cruise. So, just pack your climbing shoes, chalk powder, crash pad and brush—to scrub clean the holds—and head to the Hemakuta Hill, the most popular bouldering spot, where you can scrabble your way across the gigantic granite rocks. The best time to visit is during winter in the cool climes. And once you’ve conquered the rotund crags, set off to explore this UNESCO World Heritage Site, its magnificent edifices and stately temples.


Malshej Ghat, Maharashtra, India
If you’re a novice when it comes to conquering rocks, then head to Malshej Ghat, tucked in Maharashtra, on the slopes of the Western Ghats. Its rocky terrain is perfect for a trek and rock climbing. During the monsoon, it glistens with waterfalls and is awash with greenery, but approach the slippery climb with proper safety measures. Explore the soaring Darkoba peak that slices through the clouds, clamber around the Harishchandragad Fort and discover the stunning caves and the fascinating temple with intricate carvings.



Italy
Dolomites, Italy
The Dolomites are a challenging and beautiful range of steep limestone peaks situated south of the Austrian/Italian border. Many of the peaks are over 3000m+ high, giving long and demanding big wall routes up to 800m long. Some routes can be over 20-pitches long, however the vast majority of them can be done in a single days outing or with an overnight stay in a mountain hut or lodge.

The range and style of rock climbing routes that can be experienced in the Dolomites is unique and varies from:
  • Single pitch sports routes.
  • Lots of long moderate alpine routes up to 800m long.
  • Imposing big wall routes such as the north face of Cima Grande arguably one of the great north walls within the Alps.

The Dolomites are particularly appealing to the pure rock climber for the following reasons when compared to their western Alps neighbours:

  • Impressive vertical limestone rock rising out of Alpine meadows.
  • Relatively short walk-ins from the road to the base of the climb - this can be typically less than an hour.
  • Majority of the routes can be climbed in a single day, reducing the amount of kit to be carried on the route, or with an overnight stay in a mountain hut or lodge.
  • No ice fields or glaciers to cross to access the routes.

All of this along with it's abundance and variety of rock faces, makes the Dolomites one of the best places to go mountain rock climbing in the world.

The area is vast stretching some 50 miles (80Kms) east of Bolzano, which is split into different groups linked by a good road network making it easy to visit several of these areas in one trip. It would be impossible to describe all of the areas in detail here, though some of the more popular areas are described briefly below.

The best time of the year to visit the Dolomites for rock climbing is the summer months of July through to September.


Las Torres de Vajolet, Italian Alps
It is best not to judge this peak by its gross photographs but to see it yourself to dispel all doubts about its beauty. The Delago arête route remains the most convenient climbing route to score this mountain.


Ruota del Tempo, Cerdeña, Italy.
Cerdeña, near Domusnovas. From the road this crag looks awesome. However sadly the climbing is not as good as its appearence first suggests. The rock is well below the average Sardinian quality and the routes are so close together and often criss cross each other. The climbing is face climbing on edges, sometimes polished and many routes don't have any particular line as much of the rock can be climbed almost anywhere. There are about 80 routes many routes in the grade 6 region so maybe popular for that reason.

However the RH sector has some very good looking routes, mostly around 7c+ or 8a. One exception is Il Piccolo Principe, a 15 metre 7a tufa climb and the crag is probably worth visiting for this route alone.



Laos
Vang Vieng & Luang Prabang, Laos
Rock Climbing in Laos only began in 2002 when the government offered climbing permits to a small group of German and American climbers. Before 2005 it was difficult for fun climbers to scale the cliffs without an official permit issued by the Laos government which was often hard to get. Now, however it is possible for people to climb after paying a small fee of $5 to the climbing company, Green Discovery which has offices in both Vang Vieng and Luang Prabang.

Although many backpackers head to Vang Vieng in Laos strictly for the buckets and the experience of tubing, there is fantastic opportunity of rock climbing here in this remarkable mountainous landscape! The area of Tham Nam Them offers many routes from 6a’s to 8a+’s and continues to be developed with sustainability and eco-tourism in mind. Gear rental, 1 day and 3-day courses are available. (Grading here by French System).

Luang Prabang also offers opportunity for budding rock climbers. Gecko Mountain is located a 25 minute boat ride from Luang Prabang and offers many routes ranging from 5-8a+. The cliffs overlook the Mekong River as it meanders its way through the town and climbing offers wonderful views. There are 1 day and 3-day courses available which can be booked in the town through Green Discovery Travel Specialist. You can also rent full equipment for the day.

Elsewhere in Laos: Although Vang Vieng is the main centre for rock climbing, it is also possible to arrange rock climbing in Nong Khiaw and Muong Ngoi in far Northern Laos. There are also rumours that rock climbing is coming to the small town of Tha Kaek in Central Laos in 2011 – so watch this space! See Green Climbers Home for more information.

Best Seasons to Rock Climb in Laos: The cool, dry season in Northern/Central Laos runs from November to February and offers some of the best weather conditions for climbers. From March to the beginning of May it gets pretty hot so climbers expect to shed a lot of sweat! Rainy season in Vang Vieng runs from May to October, but it is still possible to climb during this time as rain often falls only in the late afternoons in large timely. downpours.

An Idea of Prices:
·         To rent equipment: Rope = $8 / Harness = $6 / Shoes = $6 / Set of quick draws & belay = $10 / Full set of gear for 2 people = $35
·         1 Full day rock climbing costs – TBC
·         3-Day rock climbing course – TBC
*Note: There is a climbing permit fee of $5 for all climbers in Laos.

Rock Climbing Schools in Vang Vieng:
·         Green Discovery offers rock climbing courses and equipment rental in Vang Vieng and Luang Prabang with a professional, eco-tourism approach.



Mexico
El Potrero Chico, Nuevo León, Mexico
The best known climbing area in Mexico is called El Potrero Chico near the city of Monterrey, close to the America border.  El Potrero Chico is a sport climber’s haven with hundreds of limestone sport routes and multi-pitch routes. These towering mountains reside in the arid Chihuahuan desert of northern Mexico offering hundreds of brilliant routes, up to 700m long.  There is something for everyone, from steep overhangs to easy slabs, with the majority of routes between 5.8 and 5.13 (French 4+ to 8a).  There is a choice between 1, 3, 10 or 20 pitch routes on bolted limestone rock.  Though the rock can be sharp there are plenty of crimps and pockets.

The best time to climb at El Potrero Chico is from mid-December through to mid-March, with late February offering the very best conditions. With regards to gear, a minimum 60m long rope is essential for the single pitch sport routes and twin 60m long ropes are recommended for the multi-pitch routes.  Bring along around 20 quickdraws and even though the routes are bolted a small set of nuts are useful.

It offers more than 500 routes, one of which is the second longest sport route in North America. Other nearby attractions include the close town of Hidalgo, the hot springs, and the rock art. This renowned climbing area has easier routes well suited for beginners and a variety of multi-pitch climbs available as well. Embrace the Mexican culture as you enjoy its thrilling rock faces!


Other places in Mexico
Cave at Chontacoatian that has some of the hardest sport climbs in Mexico.  Closer to Mexico City there is the excellent sport climbing at Jilotepec and Los Dimamos, with Aculco offering the best trad climbing.  For longer multi-pitch routes then Pena de Bernal and Chico National Park are the best areas that are situated to the north of Mexico City.  Chico National Park is also the best bouldering area closest to the capital. 

Further north near San Luis is the excellent limestone sport climbing area of Guadalcazer with many overhanging routes with huge stalactites, tufas and pockets.

Close to Guadalajara there are several rock climbing areas with the granite blocks of El Diente being the best.  Here there is excellent bouldering and sport climbing.  However the best sport climbing near Guadalajara is on the coast at Ixcatan with many excellent routes on first class basalt rock.


Morocco
Todra Gorge, Morocco
The Todra Gorge is situated in the High Atlas Mountains. The scenery is spectacular with high limestone cliffs that provide bolted sport routes up to 300m long.  This area is one of Morocco’s largest and well developed climbing areas with over 400 routes across a wide range of grades, particularly from F6a to F7b, that are easy to reach on foot.  The quality and variety of the limestone rock is excellent, and the potential for further new route development is immense.

The best time to visit both the Todra Gorge is in the spring and autumn with late March to early May being especially good.  It is possible to climb during the winter though it can be cold, especially at night.  The summer is just too hot.  The closest airport is Marrakech.


Taghia Gorge, Morocco
The Taghia Gorge is situated in the High Atlas Mountains, and provides the best big wall climbing in Morocco with routes up to 800m long.  The small village of Taghia is at 1900m and is surrounded by overhanging red limestone walls and peaks up to 3000m high.  However Taghia village is remote with no tarmac road for access and therefore it requires at least a 4x4 vehicle to gain access to the valley, a truly adventurous experience.  There are currently over 100 routes developed with the grades generally starting at F6b and the vast majority over F6c.  There is fixed protection though it is advisable to bring additional traditional gear such as cams and nuts.  The best time to visit the gorge is from early April to the end of October though it can get hot in the summer, with the closest airport being Marrakech. 


Tafraoute, Morocco
Situated around 125km southeast of Agadir, Tafraoute is located in the Moroccan Anti-Atlas Mountains range.  Around Tafraoute the Jebel el Kest massif provide some excellent adventurous, traditional rock climbing with miles of solid superb quartzite rock to choose from.  There is also a wide variety of climbing from bouldering, single pitch roadside crags to long multi-pitch routes (up to 800m long) on big walls, high ridges and summits.  However this beautiful and rugged mountain terrain is surprisingly quick and easy to access; with many of the crags within a twenty minute walk from the road.

The area has only recently been developed and hence still offers excellent opportunities for developing new routes and exploring.  The climbing ethics is traditional, which requires the placing of cams and nuts for protection. There is a wide range of grades to choose from particularly in the lower to mid-grade range.  The whole area is also scattered with granite boulders, providing an enormous amount of excellent bouldering.



New Zealand
Wharepapa, New Zealand
New Zealand's premier rock climbing destination is a region of volcanic crags and cliff-faces, located just two hours south of Auckland. Wharepapa offers more than 2500 unique climbing routes, suitable for all abilities; climbing instruction is readily available here and the many bolted routes are ideal for getting accustomed to the local conditions. Some of the most popular spots here include Waipap, Smith Rocks, Wherepapa Crags and Froggatt Edge. Not one of the world's most extreme rock climbing locations, but one of the best for sheer diversity and volume.





Pakistan
Nameless Tower/Trango Towers, Pakistan
The best-known granite spire in Pakistan's 'Trango Towers' series, rises 6,239 metres above the Baltoro Glacier, Northern Pakistan alongside some of the largest cliffs and most challenging climbs on the planet. The summit of Nameless Tower juts 1000 metres above the ridgeline and, of the eight recognised routes to the peak, 'Eternal Flame' is a favourite. The first climber to summit the tower was Joe Brown and his team in 1976.


Amin Braq and Amin Nawaz, Pakistan
Nangma Valley is world-renowned and one of the best rock climbing playground in the range of Karakoram, Baltistan, Pakistan.The peaks named by the Spanish expedetion in 1995 behalf their respective cooks son’s Amin for(1995) and Nawaz for the British (1998). Amin Brakk is one of the most spectacular and popular of the of  the world.

The peak is most difficult  too as campare of  Trango Towers), generally quoted as 5,850m but thought possibly higher.In 1996, the very experienced Spanish big wall climber, Jon Lazkano, together with Adolfo Madinabeitia and Jose Carlos Tamayo made a capsule style attempt on the 1,200m granite face of unclimbed Amin Brakk (c5,750m).

After 15 days on the wall the trio were forced to give up around 300m below the top, worn down by bad weather, cold temperatures that caused minor frostnip, and lack of food. They estimated another three to four days of good climbable weather would be needed in order to reach the summit. Amin  Nawaz  history same as Amin Braq for the British.Generally quoted as 5,700m but thought possibly higher, the nawaz Brakk first saw the wall by Lazkano during a visit the previous year, when he attempted a line on the adjacent North West Face of Nawaz Brakk during possibly the first serious climbing expedition to this hidden glacier basin.Incidentally, both teams named the twins peaks after their respective cooks; Amin for the Spanish and Nawaz for the British. Best Period: June – September.


Changi Tower, Pakistan
Changi Tower is second highest rock peaks after Amin Braq (5850m) among nangma group of mountains(Amin Braq 5850m,K6 7222),Amin Nawaz, Great Tower 5822 and many other peaks.

It’s located at Nangma valley is known as paradise of rock climbing. The trek start from Kanday walking through green meadows and trees 5/6 hours walk to Base camp.

The valley is absolutely free zoone with no requiring permit nor climbing fee. It was first climbed by Polish climbers Jan Kuczera and Tomasz Polok climbed the south-west pillar of the final (lowest) tower on the south-west ridge of Changi Tower's east summit. They called this 5820m formation Barasa or Changi Peak. Their route was 500-5820m high, sometimes slabby with no protection and graded VII.


Great Tower, Pakistan
Great tower called as well as Shingu chapa too,also known of the best rock and it ice peaks among nangma group of mountains in the karakoram Range.It’s situated in nangma valley Kanday village which known as the heaven of rock climbing presenting by Amin Braq,Amin Nawaz ,Changi Tower,Braq Zang peak, many more from 5000 to as below. However Great tower is spectacular and challangious one.The Base camp is short and easy access as can be reach within one days from Kanday Village.

Climbing History: It was first climbed by Koreans expedition in 2003,Including members Shin Dong-Chul, Bang Jung-Ho and Hwang Young-Soon, made the first ascent of Shingu Charpa (The Great Tower 5,600m) in the Nangma Valley. The three fixed 700m of rope in a dangerous approach couloir to an altitude of 4,800m, then committed themselves to the West Face, a steep granite wall that took seven days to ascend and descend. Climbing through generally very poor weather, the three Koreans reached the summit on the 23rd July after overcoming difficulties rated at 5.11 and A2. Frequent rain and snowstorms made the route particularly dangerous with an ever present threat of stone fall, especially in the lower section where the wall was less than vertical.


Shipton Spire, Pakistan
Shipton Spire is another fascinated rock wall in trango group of mountains. It’s very near from Trango Tower and most challengious peaks in the Karakoram range.

It’s located Three miles across the Trango Glacier and just above the confluence of the North and South Hainabroq Glaciers was the elusive Shipton Spire.

It’s stands two hours walk from Trango Towers Group on Upper Trango Glacier.

It rises out of the massive glacial junction with it’s walls looking stunning and fierce. Many climbers from around the world are attracted by these rock towers.

The climbing is hard but the rock quality is superb. On its major route a 29 pitch, 4,400 ft. big-wall with the pitch rated 6c, 7b and 7b+ certainly offer best technical climb one can expect on a Karakoram granite tower.


Charakusa Valley, Pakistan
Much of mountaineer climb on the giant of Baltoro whereas not far, the superb valley of Charakusa, Kharidas, Nangma, Humbroq and is growing by isolated towers and superb granite spires which remain out of the world.

In the north east of Hushe possesses some of the best rock climbing peaks in the world.

The Fati peak, Neza peak and Farhat peak presents unique climbing opportunities for rock enthusiasts. The valley is located at a Hight of two days by foot journey from Hushe valley. There are several other spectacular granite walls and spires at the eastern end of the Charakusa Glacier, some of were ever climb but many are waiting first climbers. Choice of climbs is incredible, the pretty mountainous area, delicious camping sites and the very welcome people policy make it a perfect climbing site for holidays.


Father Son Peak & Shingo Chatpa Peak, Pakistan
These magnifican peaks also lies in nangm valley Kanday Baltistan. Nangma known as rock climbing valley of Kanday Baltistan,hosting  by many of splendid rock mountains. Father & son also a magnificent peak for rock climbing of this valley.

It was climbed in1999 by Andrew Mc Cauley, Ned Norton, Paul Weber et Vera Wong climbed the Father Peak (5500m) (second attempt).


Sotolpa Peak, Pakistan
This spectacular peak is still unclimbed peak, located nearby famous peak Amin Braq in Nangma valley Kanday Baltistan. The peak heights are almost 5600-m. The Base camp is quite easy as Nangma is shortest valley from Kanday. The valley offer to climb more peaks as many of peaks as your optional choice. Let’s try to climb this magnificent peak make as first climbing history.


Uli Biaho, Pakistan
Uli Biaho is another  spectacular rock walls located in Baltoro Baltistan  near  Trango Tower.
It consists of two main peaks, Uli

Biaho Tower (listed by Roskelley as 19,957 feet, and by Kopold as 6,109 meters or 20,043 feet).
It was first climbed by American in July 3, 1979.as alpine-style via the direct East Face by  John Roskelley.

For further information about rock climbing in the Karakorum: www.karakoramtours.com



Portugal
Redinha – Nossa Senhora da Estrela, Pombal; Farol da Guia, Cascais, Lisboa, Portugal
Redinha Area- At 13 Km from Pombal. There are 3 Climbing Zones in Redinha: Senhora da Estrela ,  Vale de Poios  and Buracas do Cagimil.



South Africa
Paarl Rock, South Africa
Paarl Rock is in South Africa and it kinda looks like a pebble that some huge Alien threw at Earth as he was passing by in their mothership. It's slick marble like   walls make this one of the biggest challenges for Rock Climbers.


Rocklands, South Africa
More information in the article: Top 20 Bouldering Spots around the World.


Cederberg, South Africa
Located in the Western Cape area, Cederberg includes five different climbing areas. Rock climbing trips to this area could include a day in the Rocklands, de Pakhuys Boulders, Sanddrif Crag, Truitjieskraal, or Wolfsberg Cracks. With route names like Orange Plasma, Wild West Wall, and Mad Cowboy, you just know that your heart will be pumping every second.



Spain
El Chorro, Spain
Enjoy Spain and all it has to offer while visiting the El Chorro, a famous limestone gorge full of places to climb. Enjoy giant limestone slabs and steep faces. It has multiple levels of difficulty and excellent multipath routes. Experience the thrill and adventure as you enter via a man made walk that is suspended 100 meters in the air and is strengthened with cables. After making your way through the gorge, you enter into the sun and reach the less intimidating peaks and relax in the gorgeous fresh air of Spain.


Mallorca, Spain
The island of Mallorca has for a long time established itself as one of Europe's premier rock climbing and sport climbing destinations. Also Mallorca has now become a top European venue for Deep Water Soloing (DWS). The type and style of the rock climbing found at Mallorca has something for everyone from slabby walls, evil overhangs, juggy tuffas, roofs, and cracks. With a few notable exceptions, the majority of the rock climbing on the island is single pitch, with plenty of routes at every grade.


Catalunya, Spain
The Catalunya area of Spain, and in particular the area to the north of Lleida, is recognised as one of the finest sport climbing venues in Europe.  There is a huge variety of climbing and bouldering to be found in this area, with everything from steep limestone gorges, tall pinnacles of rock to sports climbing in a mountainous environment and sandstone boulders. 


Costa Brava and Costa Blanca, Spain
Spain’s Costa Brava and Costa Blanca are two more fabulous places to learn to climb. Few of the crags have the easy beachside feel that makes Krabi so special, but the weather is generally warm and dry and the climbing is first class. Rather than take the informal, once-off approach of most lessons available in the Alps, the Spanish coast tends to be the destination of choice for learn-to-climb courses. If you’ve got a weekend or a week and want to really learn some skills rather than just try climbing for fun, Spain is a very good choice. It’s cheaper than in the Alps, too.

Most Costa Brava and Costa Blanca climbs are bolted, which makes it easier for beginners to pick up skills safely, but you can also try something a little different and leave off the rope altogether. Deep Water Soloing or DWS is the art of climbing ropeless above the sea, so if you fall, you get wet rather than hit the ground. There are still risks, but easy DWS is great fun and local instructors will be able to show you safe places to try it.

The Penyal d'Ifac is one of those places.


Albarracin, Spain
More information in the article: Top 20 Bouldering Spots around the World.



Swiss
Matterhorn, Zermatt, Switzerland Alps
At 4,478 metres tall, the Matterhorn is one of the highest peaks in the Swiss Alps. First climbed in 1865 by British climber Edward Whymper and his team, the Matterhorn was the last great Alpine peak to be climbed, signalling the end of the Golden Age of alpinism. One of the Alp's deadliest peaks, three of Whymper's team were lost on the descent and, since 1865, more than 500 climbers have perished here. Whilst the Hörnli ridge is the most popular route to the summit, the North Face –which was first summited in 1931 – is considered the most challenging.



Thailand
Railay and Ton Sai in Krabi
Krabi might offer the most relaxed learn-to-climb experience in the world, but do make sure your instructor is fully qualified. The stringent regulations that apply in Europe, the UK, and the USA are not quite so tough in South East Asia. There are plenty of excellent guides available, just make sure yours is suitably experienced, or pick one of the climbing schools. Then you can relax and enjoy the rock, the culture, the (incredibly) cheap food and accommodation, and of course, the sun and the beaches.

The beachside climbing in Thailand’s Railay/Krabi area is very different. Here, the routes are comparatively short and your instructor will be able to simply lower you to the ground if you get scared and want a rest.

One of the most popular locations to rock climb has to be Railay and Ton Sai in Krabi, on the East Coast of Southern Thailand. With bright white sandy beaches, clear turquoise waters surrounded by towering limestone cliffs on all sides – rock climbing addicts will think they have died and gone to heaven here!

From first time climbers to hard-core experts, there are many different routes to suit all skill types. The scenery is incredible and the atmosphere is friendly as climbers spend days on the rocks and nights at many of the chilled out bars that play Reggae tunes into the night air.

There are  enough routes to keep you busy for years – including beginner grade 5a’s up to the extremely challenging 8c’s. Grading here by French System. Beginners will likely start of on the walls ABC, Taiwand Wall and Diamond Cave and more experienced climbers will take on the likes of Generator Wall and Tyrolean Wall. One of the best things about Railay and Ton Sai is that you don’t have to be an expert climber to be rewarded with spectacular views!

There are many excellent and professional rock climbing schools in the area, such as “Sea Cliffs Rock Climbing”, based in East Railay who will take you out for a half day or full day climb. Suitable for beginners these types of courses will give you an introduction to rock climbing and you will be supervised at all times by a professional instructor. Most rock climbing schools offer either half day or full day courses and you will tackle around 3-4 climbs per half day with a partner.

There is also the opportunity to take longer courses that will teach you how to use your equipment safely and effectively, learn how to lead climb and multi-pitch. Some schools also offer “Deep Water Soloing” which is rock climbing without the safety of a rope! When you have completed your climb (presuming you don’t fall off before hand) you leap from the cliff and plunge into the deep sea below for an exhilarating finale!

Best Seasons to Rock Climb in Krabi:
December – March is the dry season and the most popular time to climb, being the safest season to go to guarantee the best weather. The months of November and April are pretty popular too and there is less chance of rain than the summer months. July-September is the official rainy season, with June and October being temperamental. However, prices for accommodation can be lower during June-October and often it only rains in the afternoons leaving the mornings free to climb!

An Idea of Prices:
·         Half day rock climbing costs between 800-1000 baht
·         Full day rock climbing costs 1,500-1,800 baht
·         3-day rock climbing course to learn all rope skills costs around 6,000 baht
·         5-day rock climbing course to learn how to lead climb costs around 8,000 baht
·         Deep water soloing full day course costs between 800-1000 baht

Rock Climbing Schools in Krabi:
·         Sea Cliffs Rock Climbing School, based in East Railay offers all different types of courses for beginners to more experienced climbers and will take you out alone or in small groups under the supervision of a professional climbing guide. You can also rent equipment here for the day.


Chiang Mai, Northern Thailand
Although not as popular as Krabi, Chiang Mai in Northern Thailand offers some great rock climbing routes at the beautiful Crazy Horse Buttress located about one hour’s drive from Chiang Mai city centre. For those traveller’s who want to avoid the crowds of South Thailand during the high season, Northern Thailand can be an excellent option! There are about 180 routes suitable for beginners or more experienced climbers. The majority of the climbs are 6a’s, with more challenging 7b’s and  here that have all been developed with sustainablity in mind – many of which have been supervised by Chiang Mai Rock Climbing Adventures and its owner Josh Morris. Grading here by French System. Full day trips can be organised from Chiang Mai which include transport to the site, lunch and hire of equipment.

Best Seasons to Rock Climb in Northern Thailand:
Although the weather in Thailand has been a little erratic of late, there are said to be three distinct seasons in Thailand. The cool, dry season, which is considered the best time for outdoor energetic pursuits such as climbing runs from the beginning of December through to the end of February. The hot season then begins from March to May where temperatures become as high as 40 C. The rainy season runs from the beginning of June to November where downpours are frequent and the atmosphere is humid. September is usually the wettest month. However, like in many parts of South East Asia during the rainy season – it is often still possible to climb in the mornings with storms coming usually in the afternoons.

An Idea of Prices (at CMRCA):
·         Full day rock climbing course costs 2,500 baht
·         3-day course to learn the fundamentals of rock climbing costs 8,995 baht

Rock Climbing Schools in Chiang Mai:
·         Chiang Mai Rock Climbing Adventures (CMRCA), located on Ratchipakinai Road in the old city of Chiang Mai offers many courses which include transport to Crazy Horse Buttress.


Chiang Rai, Northern Thailand
Less well-known than Chiang Mai, head just a few hours north to Chiang Rai for uninterrupted rock climbing and bare cliff faces.

An Idea of Prices:
·         A full day climbing trip costs from 1,200 Baht per person, price drops to 700 Baht if you have two people, and continues to drop to 500 baht for a group of ten or more – so take some friends! (All prices quoted are those of Boomerang Rock Climbing and Adventure Park)
·         Or a full day of activities, plus overnight camping, costs 1,500 baht per person, or 900 baht for two to nine people.

Rock Climbing Schools in Chiang Rai:
·         Boomerang Rock Climbing and Adventure Park, situated just outside Chiang Rai in between two Buddha Caves. They offer activity days packed full of ‘top-rope’ routes, zip lines, caving and Asia’s biggest swing. Check out www.thailandrocks.com. 


Koh Phi Phi
The climbing opportunities on Phi Phi Island aren’t as well known or published as those at Railay which can make for less crowded routes and a more laid back vibe amongst the cragsmen who congregate here. While the scenery isn’t as stunning as Railay it does come very close and although the 2004 Tsunami wiped out most of the routes, conscientious climbers have worked tirelessly to restore them back to their former glory.

Some of the main climbs on this island include Drinking Wall which contains routes from grade 5 to 7c and is thankfully in the shade from around 11am each day, helping to minimise the risk of heatstroke and sunburn. Another good crag is the Ton Sai (not to be confused with Tonsai at Krabi) Tower climbing area.

The island itself has been enthusiastically redeveloped since the Tsunami reset Koh Phi Phi back in 2004 so if you are looking for the peace and tranquillity of a deserted Thai island, this probably isn’t the place for you; although party animals will surely love their time on the island.


Koh Yao Noi
While Railay is still the most popular climbing destination in Thailand, it has suffered somewhat from its popularity with alpinists from around the world. Many of the routes, especially the ever-popular beginner routes, have been well polished due to heavy use and during the high season these routes can be get pretty crowded with people learning to climb.  To try and offset this and help spread the climbing trade around the country, there is now a good selection of beginner routes on Yao Noi Island.

This island is located between Krabi and Phuket and has a varied range of accommodation options from bungalows to five star resorts. Phang Nga bay is the island of Koh Yao Noi, which offers single pitch sport climbing and deep water soloing (DWS).  As well being well suited to beginners, there are many routes on Koh Yao Noi that will challenge the most experienced of climbers. If you want to get away from the crowds of Railay then this is your best option. There are also many opportunities for deepwater solo climbs here.


Other places in Thailand
In addition to these rocks climbings there are many more climbing areas being developed especially in southern Thailand.  For example in the mountains behind this bay in Phang Nga Province have recently being developed, though there is enormous scope for developing many new routes.  Other areas include Ao Nang, Koh Lao Liang, and the island of Koh Phi Phi, which also has some deep water soloing.

The best time to go rock climbing in Thailand is November to March when the weather is dry and warm, which is also the main tourist season, and therefore the prices are higher.  Though it is possible to climb all year round during April and May are extremely hot. The rainy season is from April through to November with September and October the wettest months. During November the rain tails off though whilst it may rain every day it is not for long.  February is the driest month.


Turkey
Antalya, Turkey
Visit this beautiful location right next to the Mediterranean and treat yourself to the beauty all around you. From waterfalls that plunge into the seas below to the beautiful beaches and animal parks, nature puts on its best displays. It is considered one of the best places in the world to climb. The varying levels of altitude and climate make it so that you can get your pick of the weather all year around. Its location next to the ocean provides you with a stunning view and the unique rock formations make climbing here a time to remember!



United Kingdom
Peak District, UK
The Peak District is one of the most popular climbing locations in the UK. Most of the national park is held in Derbyshire, but some parts of the area branch out into neighboring Cheshire, Yorkshire and Staffordshire. The northern area, known as Dark Peak, is made up of gritstone, known for its unique friction, which makes for a great climbing experience. The southern part of the Peak District is known as White Peak and whose predominantly limestone crags are much steeper and tend to attract the more arduous crowd.

Over 10,000 climbs have been recorded here, the toughest of which is attributed to one of the most famous Peak District climbers, Ron Fawcett, who pioneered the ‘Master’s Edge’ route. The climb is graded E7 6C and rises 19m up the near vertical edge; a true testament to his skill and strength.

Popular gritstone areas for traditional and sport climbers is Stanage Crag. Birchen, Froggatt and Burbage don’t see as many visitors, are still offer excellent climbs. Popular limestone areas can be found at High Tor, Beeston Tor and the towers of Dovedale. Ace Outdoors has introductory (1 day) and intermediate (2 day) courses as well as an indoor climbing course for anyone looking to learn the ropes (pun intended) in the Peak District.

Ace Outdoors. Unit 3, Elizabeth Court. Kemble Street, Prescot, Merseyside, L34 5SH | Chesterfield. ace-outdoors.co.uk. VDiff - E2


Lake District, UK
The birthplace of rock climbing is one of the best known locations for outdoor enthusiasts in Britain. Climbing in the Lake District is very popular due to its easy accessibility its wide variety of climbing within the region. With areas ranging from lofty mountain crags to some extreme big crag routes, the Lake District has something to offer the beginner and the experienced rock climber. Barrowdale has easy-access roadside climbs for all grades, while Langdale is more geared towards beginners. Raven Crag, in Ullswater, features more challenging climbs for experts. Meanwhile, Wasdale is where to find more iconic climbs like Pillar Rock and Scafell Crag. On wet days, there are a number of climbing walls in the Lake District to hit up, the most popular being Kendal Climbing Wall. 

Fell & Rock Climbing Club. Oxenhome Rail Station. frcc.co.uk. VDiff - VS

Glencoe, Scotland, UK
Long been regarded as one of the UK’s best rock climbing areas, Glencoe has enough rock to last you a lifetime. Owned and cared for by the National Trust for Scotland, the area is surrounded with a deep history, beautiful scenery and some of the best rock climbing in the world. There is climbing to fit everyone’s ability from bold new routing to hard trad routes to easy multi-pitch classics. However, most climbs are trickier than they look. Buachaille Etive Mor has literally hundreds of climbs, many of which are absolute classics. The area is a popular destination for ice-climbing, so check out The Ice Factor, who offer ice-climbing and mountaineering courses all year long, as well as their very own indoor rock wall that combines rock and ice. 

The Ice Factor. Kinlochleven, Lochaber PH50 4SF | Fort William. ice-factor.co.uk. Mod - E5.

Snowdonia, UK
Snowdonia has one of the most renowned rock climbing scenes in the world. You can find everything in this beautiful mountain range in the northwest of Wales. Packed around its two main valleys, you can find almost anything you need - mountains, crags, sea cliffs. Along with loads of traditional climbing routes, you can also find anything from sports climbing to long and adventurous mountain days. Lower grade climbers can go to Ogwen valley for the best base. The Llaniberis Pass has the best selection of routes for middle grade climbers, which includes the famous Cenotaph Corner. The less populated south of the park is much more secluded, if that’s what you’re looking for. Plas y Brenin offers a variety of courses based on experience and type of rock you are looking for. 

Plas y Brenin National Mountain Sports Centre. Capel Curig, Conwy LL24 0ET | Llandudno Junction. pyb.co.uk. Dif - E9.

Cairngorms, UK
The area is as beautiful as it is exhausting. The Cairngorms feature some of the most challenging and rewarding climbs for even the most experienced climber. The national park is in one of the coldest and wildest areas in Scotland, which makes it a popular destination in the winter. But the magnificent views are worth the trouble. The stellar scenery and the different types of rocks and routes make it one of the most popular destinations for rock climbing in the UK. The Northern Corries are known for its challenging, but accessible climbs. Creag an Dubh Loch and Lochnagar in the southern Cairngorms, and The Shelterstone Crag in the northern Cairngorms bring the most visitors and are known for their impressive and clean climbs. Cairngorm Adventure Guides offer a range of courses from taster days to intimate guided tours. 

Cairngorm Adventure Guides. Aviemore, Scotland, PH22 1SA | Aviemore. cairngormmountain.org. VDif - E7.


USA
Dead Horse Point, USA
Dead Horse Point is in Utah and named after the fact that horses have a difficult time getting through this canyon. Rock Climbers make it out here now all the time with their SUVs so no worries!


Spider Rock, Arizona, USA
Spider Rock is located in the Canyon de Chelly of Arizona. It was named after the home of an old Navajo Indian mythical woman named "Grandmother Spider" who's legend was that she created the stars in the sky from the dew on her web that she spun and threw up into the heavens. As the web entered outspace, they settled there to become stars.
 
El Capitan, Yosemite National Park, USA
Yosemite National Park might be the most exciting rock climbing destination in the world. It has truly huge rock domes, sheer cliff faces, and pinnacles, and some of the longest and most challenging routes on the globe. There is a downside- it’s crowded with hopeful climbers and non-climbing tourists, and most of the really stunning routes are off-limits to beginners- but Yosemite is worth is just for the atmosphere alone. The best time to go is either in the April to June period or September-October, when it’s not too hot and not too wet.

Most of the climbs in the Yosemite area are not bolted (ie there are no specially-placed metal safety points). That makes it a little less beginner friendly than some other places, but wherever you go, a beginner climber should always hire an instructor to show them the ropes. They’ll have all the necessary gear and will be able to keep you safe and show you the best places and the best routes for less experienced climbers. The other major factor that separates Yosemite from other climbing hot spots is the height- this is not the one to choose if you might be a little nervous a long way off the ground.


Red Rock Canyon, USA
A few miles from Las Vegas, in the state of Nevada, we move into a reddish, rocky landscape.

Here, a series of formations in the mountains, known as Aztec Sandstone, composed field exploring climbers reach these distances.

With over 2,000 experts and beginners suitable for paths, some slopes can reach over 900 meters high. Reaching up has its rewards: The fascinating view is that of a huge valley that resembles Mars.

Shiprock, New Mexico, USA
Shiprock was formed by a volcanic eruption that dates back to 30 million years and now remains as a matchless basalt exhibit of the central feeder pipe of a volcano. Rock climbers making it to the top can see a series of volcanic vents and small pinnacles specking the main peak.

Devil’s Tower, USA
This distinct structure is very popular with climbers worldwide, drawing in more than 1,100 each season. Around 85% of them take the Durrance Route, generally regarded as the easiest route to the summit, but if you want to avoid the traffic then there are over 150 other routes to choose from. Many routes are best done by climbing the first few pitches and then rappelling – fixed anchors are numerous. Hundreds of parallel cracks divide the tower into large hexagonal columns, making it one of the finest traditional crack climbing areas in North America.

Indian Creek, USA
Indian Creek is located in Utah and it has some of the deadliest crevices in the World. Aron Ralston became famous after his solo-hiking through these cracks in the rocks. One time, he fell and got trapped and he had to saw off his own arm to get out. You can watch a movie called "127 Hours" to witness his story.

The Stolen Chimney, Fisher Towers, Utah, USA
The western formation of Utah's 'Fisher Towers' is known as 'Ancient Arts Tower'. Within this series of sandstone turrets is the gnarled spire of the Stolen Chimney, rising 250 feet above the desert floor, and culminating in a wedge-like peak, known as 'Corkscrew Summit'. Its bulbous shape makes it technically different from other climbs in the area and its iconic form has meant that the Stolen Chimney has been regularly featured in mainstream ads and Hollywood films.

Joshua Tree, USA
Joshua Tree is the largest climbing area in north America in terms of number of routes, with over 8,000.  The white granite rock provides numerous single and multi-pitch routes and many classic bouldering problems.  The Quartz Monzonite granite at Joshua Tree is famously course, thus providing excellent fiction, along with many crack features.  Hence the style of climbing is “traditional”, requiring the placing of cams and nuts.  The best time to go rock climbing in Joshua Tree is from mid-October through to late April or early May.

Bishop, USA
More information in the article: Top 20 Bouldering Spots around the World.

Shuteye Ridge, USA
Is located in California's western Sierra Mountains that offers a wide range of climbing styles from easy low angled multi-pitch routes, to widely overhanging jug hauls.  All the rock climbing is on heavily featured granite faces, favouring routes that use a mixture of bolts and traditional gear.

Northern California, USA
Has many different bouldering areas including around Mount Lasson near Redding, Lake Tahoe and the San Francisco Bay area.  It is possible to experience different types of rock in a relatively small area including granite, volcanic, Balsalt and sandstone.

Standard east face, Flatirons, Colorado, USA
Rising behind the outdoor paradise of Boulder like a set of ragged shark’s teeth are the Flatirons. Like fingers there are five, and the third – an immaculate, massive slab of sandstone, conglomerate and shale – holds what many, including legendary climber Yvon Chouinard, call the finest beginner’s route in the US: the east face. It romps up the easy, low-angled face to the pointy summit, where three exciting abseils take you back to the ground. And if the ‘standard’ route is not challenging enough for you, consider some past ascents – it’s been climbed naked, speed soloed (in 5.59 minutes) and, in 1953, ascended in rollerskates.

The Flatirons are closed from February to July for the raptor breeding season, but can be climbed at all other times if conditions are suitable.

The Flatirons on Green Mountain are within the City of Boulder Open Space and Mountain Parks system. They are popular destinations for hikers and rock climbers, with rock grades ranging from easy (5.0) to world-class (5.14b).

Fort Collins’s Horsetooth Reservoir, USA
Along with California, the state of Colorado offers the greatest variety of rock climbing in America.  Dominated by the Rock Mountains, along with classic areas such as Aspen and Boulder, there is everything from big wall aid routes, long multi-pitch routes on granite rock, limestone sport routes and sandstone bouldering at Fort Collins’s Horsetooth Reservoir.

Cassin Ridge, Denali, Alaska
This is considered by some as a ‘test piece’ for climbers and alpinists as it includes a variation of ice and rock climbing as well as steep mixed terrain, high altitudes and hazardous weather conditions…yet it is still one of the most sought after climbs in the world. The ridge splits the vast south face of the biggest mountain on the continent but the actual climbing is not too difficult; the combination of above factors make it a tribute to the visionary first ascentionists and explain the relatively low number of ascents it has seen. The quality of the climbing is classic and Bradford Washburn wrote that the route had “unequivocally excellent climbing from start to finish.” We agree Bradford! The rock and the ice on this exceptional route are superb.


Vietnam
Halong Bay & Cat Ba National Park, Northern Vietnam
With over 3,000 limestone monoliths scattered over an area of 1,500 kilometres, Halong Bay is regarded as one of the most beautiful seascapes on the planet and was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1994. The karsts of all different shapes and sizes were formed over 500 million years ago. Rising impossible out of emerald green waters, they just beckon to be climbed! However, it is only until recently that the area has opened up to rock climbers.

Half day and full day rock climbing courses will take you by boat out into the spectacular scenery of Halong Bay where you will arrive at a deserted beach to start your climb. Climbing areas in Halong Bay include Moody’s Beach, Offheimer’s Creation and Pyramid Cave. There are also areas to climb on coastal areas of Cat Ba Island itself such as the secluded Lien Minh Village.

For experienced climbers, there are also many opportunities to deep water solo in the area. Although the sport is just taking off here in this area of Vietnam, climbers are already dubbing Halong Bay as one of the best places on earth for deep water soloing!


Best Seasons to Rock Climb in Halong Bay: It is possible to climb at any time of the year in Halong Bay as it is one of the areas of Vietnam which experiences some of the least rainfall in the country. May to June and September, October, November and  December and are considered the best months to climb in Halong Bay, with clear skies, no rain and temperatures which are warm, but not too hot. January to April can get very cold, but if you don’t mind working up a sweat while you climb then this may be the time for you! July to August is the rainy season in Halong Bay with storms sometimes lasting a few days – although with many of the climbs sheltered it is still possible to climb during this time.

An Idea of Prices:
·         Half day rock climbing costs around $30
·         Full day rock climbing costs $50
·         Deep water soloing full day course costs around $30

Rock Climbing Schools in Vietnam:
·         Slo Pony Adventures, based on Cat Ba Island is a world of knowledge about climbing in Vietnam and offers rock climbing trips for half or full day in many areas of Halong Bay and Cat Ba Island.